ESCARAPELA





 
 
 

Latin America: A Patagonian paradox

By Justin Marozzi
Feb 14, 2003
www.ft.com

…A three-and-a-quarter-hour flight south takes you away from the seething metropolitan sprawl of Buenos Aires to El Calafate in southern Patagonia, a world of endless vistas and everlasting skies. To give an idea of its emptiness, Patagonia is the size of western Europe with a population of 2 million.

Paul Theroux captured the unfathomable scale of this landscape wonderfully in the following passage from Nowhere is a Place: Travels in Patagonia.

"There were no voices here. There was this, what I saw; and though beyond it were mountains and glaciers and albatrosses and Indians, there was nothing to speak of, nothing to delay me further. Only the Patagonian paradox: tiny blossoms in vast space; to be here, it helped to be a miniaturist, or else interested in enormous empty spaces. There was no intermediate zone of study. Either the enormity of the desert or the sight of a tiny flower. In Patagonia you had to choose between the tiny or the vast."

Not strictly true, of course, because the traveller can do both. At Hosteria Alta Vista, a beautifully restored estancia (ranch-house), you can ride out into the mountains all day, spotting wildlife with your gaucho guide - eagles and condors, flamencos, ibis, upland geese, Patagonian foxes, guanacos and armadillos, to name just a few - before returning at dusk, saddle-sore but sated.

The closest thing I've found to a perfect day.

 

 
 

Information for travellers

1. High and Low Seasons in Argentina

The high season in Argentina extends between the months of January, February (summer) and July (winter), as the Southern hemisphere is opposite to that of the Northern hemisphere. During those periods, local tourism grows and prices are generally higher.

Summer (January, February and part of December and March), is generally the ideal time in which to visit the Patagonia Region (Andean and Atlantic); the central Sierras (Córdoba and San Luis); and the Sierras and beaches of Buenos Aires. Winter time (June, July and August) is recommended for travelling to the North and Northwest, as the rains are less frequent and the tropical temperature drops a few degrees. Autumn and spring are an ideal time in which to travel to the Cuyo Region and the mountain areas of La Rioja and Catamarca. Choose your clothes according to the time of the year and the region which you visit. During those periods, local tourism grows and prices are generally higher.




     
 

2. How do I arrive by plane?

International flights to Argentina arrive at Ministro Pistarini (Ezeiza) International Airport of Buenos Aires, 47 kilometers from the Federal Capital and connected to it by the Teniente General Ricchieri motorway. Remember that on leaving the country, a tax of $ 30,50 (Argentine pesos) has to be paid. The companies Manuel Tienda León (Av. Santa Fé 790, Tel. 4315-0489) and Ecuador (Florida 1045, Tel. 4314-1999) offer a half-hourly bus service between their offices in Buenos Aires and Ezeiza airport from 4:00 a.m. to 9:00 p.m. The fare is $10 and $7, and the trip takes 40 minutes. There are also taxis and chauffeur-driven rental cars, which cost between $ 35 and $ 38.

3. Entry Formalities

a. Visa Requirements

A valid passport is required to enter Argentina, except for citizens from one of the neighbouring countries of Chile, Uruguay, Bolivia, Paraguay and Brazil, who may show an identity document. Canadian citizens travelling to Argentina for tourism purposes only, for a period of three months or less, do not require a visa for entry into the country. Please note: the validity of a Canadian passport should exceed the intended duration of the visit in Argentina. It is recommended that the Canadian passort be valid for at least six months. For additional information on visas or entry formalities, you should consult with the Argentine Embassy or consulate nearest to you.

b. Customs

Laws strictly prohibit or restrict entry with protected fauna, drugs, steroids, firearms and related items. Each traveller older than 18 years may carry up to 2 (two) liters of alcoholic beverages, 400 cigarettes and 50 cigars. There is no limit for the entry of personal items and clothing. Photographic and electronic equipment and computer related items must be declared upon entry. Visitors coming from countries not bordering Argentina are exempt from all taxes on travelling articles and new articles with a value of not more than US$300 and US$300 additional if they are purchased in the duty free shops within the National territory.

c. Other Requirements

No vaccination certificate is required for entry, except for visitors coming from countries where cholera and yellow fever are endemic.

4. Travelling within the Country

a. By Plane

Given the large size of the country, air is the ideal form of transport. Aerolíneas Argentinas and Austral Líneas Aéreas ,as well as several other international airlines offer regular flights to Argentina. The companies Aerolíneas Argentina, Austral Líneas Aéreas, AIRG, DINAR, LADE ARG, LAER, TAAN and Southern Winds also offer domestic flights.

Domestic flights and flights to Uruguay leave from Jorge Newberry Airport, in downtown Buenos Aires. There is a departure tax for domestic flights. Please check with your travel agent or Consulate for the amount.

b. By Bus

The Buenos Aires bus station is on Av. Ramos Mejía 1880, near to Retiro Railway Station. Long distance buses are equipped with toilets, air conditioning and a bar. Meal services are usually included in the price of the ticket.

c. By Train

- Mitre Railway ( Retiro Station) to Rosario and Tucumán.
- Sarmiento Railway ("Estación Once") to La Pampa.
- Roca Railway ("Constitución" Station) to Mar del Plata, Bahía Blanca
   and San Carlos de Bariloche.

d. By Car

i) Driving

Driving is on the right side. Seatbelts are obligatory, although local drivers often do not use them.

Maximum speed limit in the cities is 60 km/hour. On the highways it is 130 km/hour.

The price of gasoline is high: US$1.059 per liter. Diesel costs one-third of this.

ii) Driving License

An International or Inter-American Driving License and a National or State Permit from the country of origin are required. Drivers must be at least 18 years old.

Three obligatory documents that must be carried in the automobile are: the receipt for the last tax payment, proof of insurance coverage and proof of ownership.

iii) Car Rental

Renting a car is expensive, although good discounts are often available.

All cities and places of touristic interest have at least one rental agency.

Avis Tel: 4300-0854
Dollar Tel: 4315-8800
Localiza Tel: 0-800-9992999
Hertz Tel: 4816-8001

Required: a valid driving license - and you must be at least 21 years of age. In some cases, 25 years of age may be required. It is sometimes necessary to use a credit card as a deposit.

 
e. By Taxi

You should call and ask for a taxi to pick you up at the door. You will be charged travel from door to door. Within the city of Buenos Aires, the minimum fare is US$1.12. The taxi meter displays the total and final amount.

Radio Taxi Madero Norte Tel: 4301-1600
Radio Taxi Pídalo Tel: 4956-1200
Radio Taxi Ya Tel: 4951-2466
Radio Taxi Gold Tel: 4305-5050
Radio Taxi Prestigio Tel: 4857-6666

"Remises" denote cars with a chauffeur that will take you wherever you wish to go. You will be charged a previously fixed rate. We suggest that you ask for this service at the hotel's front desk.

Remises Universal Tel: 4315-6555
Remises Millet Tel: 4816-0101
Remises Intercar Tel: 4864-3147
Remises Le Coq Tel: 4964-2000
Remises Good Times Tel: 4757-0147
 
f. Charters to the International Airport

From Ezeiza International Airport there are buses that will take you to the city of Buenos Aires. There are taxis and remises at the exit doors.

Buses Manuel Tienda León Tel: 4314-3636
Buses San Martín Tel: 4816-7676
 
g. Cruises

The following companies offer different tours:

Buquebus Tel: 4316-6400
Cacciola Tel. 4393-6100
Ferrytur Tel: 4511-1350
 

5. Currency and Methods of Payment

The local currency (Argentine Peso) is distinguished by the $ symbol.
Coins denominations are: 1; 0.50; 0.25; 0.10; 0.05; 0.01 centavos.
Bill denominations are : 2; 5; 10; 20; 50 and 100 pesos.

Changing US dollars presents no problem. Other currencies should be changed in "casas de cambio" or exchange shops.

 
a. Credit cards

The most widely accepted cards are Mastercard, Visa, American Express, and - rarely accepted by smaller businesses - Diner's Club.

While it is prohibited to charge a fee for payment with credit cards, most businesses offer a 10% discount for payment in cash.

b. Traveller's checks

Businesses usually do not accept traveller's checks as a form of payment. It is recommended that you exchange them in the appropriate exchange shops and banks.

The most frequently used traveller's checks are American Express and those offered by Citibank.

 
c. Automatic Teller Machines (ATM)

There are many. Most allow transactions in pesos and in US dollars. You may also get cash advanced with Mastercard and Visa credit cards. The two current networks (Banelco and Link) work with the Cirrus and Plus systems.

Ask the bank that issued your credit card to inquire if it can be used in Argentina.

 

6. Health

No special measures are required regarding health. Although emergency services of the Argentine public hospitals are good and usually free, it is strongly recommended that you carry international medical insurance.

* Vaccinations
There are no specific vaccinations required, unless you are coming from or travelling through an area where cholera and yellow fever are endemic.
*Travellers with reduced mobility

Although Argentina has progressed greatly in recent years, it is still far from offering the attention that persons with reduced mobility deserve.

There are ramps on sidewalks and in public buildings. Local bus transport also has low floors.

 

7. Laws concerning alcoholic beverages

You must be at least 18 years old to purchase or to consume alcoholic beverages in public places. Only one glass of beer or wine is permitted before driving. Violation of this prohibition may lead to heavy fines.

 

8. Time Zone

3 hours behind GMT. The time does not change with the seasons.

 

9. Telephones

It is recommmended that you make calls from a public telephone or from a private telephone center (locutorio), as these have much more economic rates than hotels and inns.

Long distance calls of all types can be made: direct, collect, operator-assisted, calling cards, coins and/or credit cards. Rates for international calls have been lowered, though not for urban calls.

There are many private telephone centers (locutorios) that offer discounts for medium and long distance calls during set hours.

 

10. Electricity

220 volts, 50 cycles.

 

11. Weights and measures.

Decimal Metric System.

Rural inhabitants employ the league, which is equivalent to 5 kilometers.

 

12. Temperature

Measured in degrees Celsius (Centigrades)

 

13. Working Hours

  • Banks and Exchange Bureaus: Monday to Friday, 10:00am to 3:00pm.
  • Business Offices: Generally from 9:00am to 12:00pm, and 2:00pm to 7:00pm.
  • Shops and Businesses: Major cities, generally Monday to Friday from 9:00am
        to 7:30pm. Saturdays, generally from 8:30am to 1:00pm.
  • Cafes and Similar: Generally open most of the time, except between 2:00am
        and 6:00am.
  • Restaurants: Lunch is generally served from 1:00pm and dinner from 7:00pm.
        Many establishments offer fast menus at all times.
  •  

    14. Tipping

    It is customary to leave a 10 % tip in restaurants and cafes. In hotels - where there is no set rate - it is common to tip the porter, the baggage handler and the cleaning service.
     

    People who are planning to travel to Argentina should take into account that there is no government or business activity on Argentine National holidays. In addition, government offices, banks, insurance companies and courts are closed on a number of “non-work days”, such as Holy Thursday (immediately before Easter); closing is optional for business and commerce.

    The Canadian Embassy in Buenos Aires closes on all Canadian and Argentine decreed national holidays.